by Lorriane Shapiro
Photos by Michael Tov


Recipes

Indian Potato Patties
Cucumber Riata
Tricolore Salad
New Orleans Sandwich With Olive Relish
Hazelnut Biscotti
Zucchini Soup Al Pesto
Pesto
Red Pepper and Feta Spread
Spicy Chicken Linguine
Cuban Chicken
Provencale Tapenade

—How to Keep Olive Oil—

Most olive oil sold in the United States is imported from Italy, France, Spain, or Greece. California has limited boutique production. Olive oil ranges from pale gold-green with a delicate flavor to dark, more pungent varieties. Like other vegetable oils, olive oil has 120 calories per tablespoon and contains no cholesterol.

Storage
Olive oil, which is monounsaturated, is more stable than polyunsaturated oils such as safflower, corn, soybean, and peanut. Kept tightly closed in a cool dark place, good quality oil should stay fresh for six months.

If bought in large cans, decant the oil into smaller bottles, preferably red wine bottles, to protect the oil from the light.

Don’t add fresh oil to a used container or to a clean damp one; both old oil and water speed deterioration.

Don’t refrigerate olive oil; it becomes cloudy and solidifies. While the oil clears at room temperature, repeated chilling and warming rapidly will lead to rancidity. Flavored olive oils should be stored in the refrigerator. They can be stored up to a month.

Cooking
Pure or refined olive oil works well for most cooking. Using extra-virgin olive oil is extravagant, because heat lessens its flavor. Since olive oil is too fragile for intense heat, use bland vegetable oil for deep-frying. Never heat oil in a covered pan; it burns more quickly. Discard oil if it burns.

—Flavored Olive Oils—

Herbed Oil
Garlic Oil
Chile Oil
Ginger or Curry Oil
Citrus Oil
Marinated Olives




Indian Potato Patties

  • 1-1/2 pounds potatoes
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 cup EACH chopped onion, coriander, tomatoes, cashews
  • 2 tablespoons EACH chopped green, red bell peppers
  • 1 teaspoon EACH salt, curry powder, minced ginger, jalapeno
  • Olive oil for frying
  • Cucumber Raita (see recipe)

    Cook potatoes in boiling water until tender. Cool under cold running water. Peel when cool enough to handle. In mixing bowl, mash with fork or masher. Blend in egg, flour, and baking powder. Add onion, coriander, tomatoes, cashews, peppers, salt, curry, ginger, and jalapeno. Mix well.

    Shape into 8 balls; form into patties in one layer on a platter. Cover and refrigerate until ready to fry. In large non-stick skillet, heat enough oil to cover bottom of pan over medium heat. Cook two at a time, until crisp and golden brown on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook on other side, adding oil as needed. Remove to platter and keep warm in 200° oven until all patties are fried. Serve with Cucumber Raita. Makes 8 servings.


    Cucumber Raita

  • 1 large cucumber, peeled, thinly sliced
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon minced green onion
  • 1 tablespoon minced parsley
  • 1 cup plain yogurt
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1 teaspoon cumin

    In large bowl, combine cucumber, garlic, onion, and parsley. Add yogurt, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and cumin. Gently blend into cucumber mixture. Cover and refrigerate. Makes 4 to 6 servings.


    Tricolore Salad

  • 8 ounces radicchio
  • 4 ounces Belgian endive
  • 1-1/2 to 2 ounces arugula or watercress sprigs
  • 1/3 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
  • Salt, black pepper, to taste
  • 1/4 cup shaved Parmesan cheese

    Trim ends from radicchio and Belgian endive. Separate into leaves. Rinse and drain. Discard coarse arugula stems and discolored leaves. Wrap in towels. Place in plastic bag and refrigerate 15 minutes or up to one day.

    Tear large leaves and place all salad greens in large bowl. In small bowl, mix vinegar and oil, garlic, mustard, and salt and pepper. Toss greens with dressing to coat lightly. Sprinkle Parmesan on top. Makes 6 servings.


    New Orleans Sandwich With Olive Relish

    The relish is also a nice addition to tossed green salad.

  • 1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed green olives, chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped black olives, preferably Greek
  • 1 roasted red pepper, cut in large dice
  • 1 stalk celery, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • 1 tablespoon capers, drained, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon oregano
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 Kaiser or sourdough French rolls
  • 6-ounce package salami
  • 6-ounce package bologna
  • 4-ounce package roast turkey
  • 1 large tomato, thinly sliced

    In medium bowl, combine olives, red pepper, celery, garlic, parsley, capers, olive oil, vinegar, oregano, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

    Slice rolls in half horizontally. Remove some soft center of roll. Drizzle dressing from relish on both halves. On bottom half, layer salami, bologna, turkey, and tomato. Spoon on olive relish. Cover with roll top. Cut sandwich in half. Makes 6 servings.


    Hazelnut Biscotti

    Italian biscotti, a twice-baked cookie similar to Mandlebrodt, may also be baked with other nuts.

  • 3 eggs
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1-1/2 cups sugar
  • 1/2 cup light olive oil
  • Grated zest of 1 orange
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 4 cups all-purpose flour (about)
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts

    In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs and yolks for 1 minute. Gradually beat in sugar. Gradually add olive oil, mixing well. Beat in orange zest and vanilla. Stir together flour, baking powder, and soda. Gradually beat in flour mixture until blended and dough can be handled. Transfer dough to a floured board; divide in half. Using palms of hands, shape into 12-inch logs 2 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. Place logs diagonally on 10 x 15-inch jelly roll pans lined with foil and dusted with flour.

    Bake at 350° for about 35 minutes. Remove to board. Cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch slices. Place cut side down on pans. Reduce heat to 325°, return to oven, and bake 15 minutes longer, or until golden. Place on racks to cool. Store in airtight containers separated with foil. Makes about 3-1/2 dozen.


    Zucchini Soup Al Pesto

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • 1/2 pound zucchini, sliced
  • 3 vegetable soup-and-seasoning cubes
  • 3 cups boiling water
  • 1 cup frozen baby lima beans, thawed
  • 1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed
  • 1/4 cup Pesto (see recipe)
  • Salt, freshly ground black pepper
  • Sour cream
  • Basil leaves or chopped chives

    In medium saucepan, heat olive oil. Add onion and zucchini; sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Dissolve vegetable cubes in boiling water and add. Bring to a boil. Add lima beans and peas; return to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer about 30 minutes, or until vegetables are soft. In food processor, puree soup in batches. Return to saucepan; add pesto and seasonings to taste. Heat to serving temperature. Ladle into heated bowls.

    Garnish with sour cream and basil. Makes 4 to 6 servings.


    Pesto

    This basil paste, crushed with a marble mortar and wooden pestle (hence, pesto), is an important part of Genoese cooking. It is floated on minestrone and tops potato gnocchi as well as pasta.

  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 2 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon pepper
  • 1/2 cup virgin olive oil (about)

    In food processor, mince garlic, then add basil and pine nuts. Process until finely chopped. Add cheese, salt, and pepper. Blend. Gradually blend in oil until smooth paste forms. Taste and correct seasonings. Transfer to a jar. Film top with olive oil. Cover and refrigerate up to a week. Makes 1-1/3 cups.


    Red Pepper and Feta Spread

  • 2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced
  • Pinch red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
  • 2 red peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded
  • 1 cup (4 ounces) crumbled feta cheese
  • Crackers, toast, or breadsticks

    In small skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic; sauté until garlic is translucent. Add pepper flakes and oregano, then cook 30 seconds longer. Let cool. In food processor, combine sautéed garlic mixture, red peppers, and feta. Process until smooth, scraping bowl with rubber spatula occasionally. Transfer to bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least one hour. Serve with crackers, toast, or breadsticks. Makes about 1 cup.


    Spicy Chicken Linguine

  • 10 ounces linguine
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • Pinch red chile flakes and salt (or to taste)
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (1 pound), diced 1/2-inch
  • 1/4 bunch (6 tablespoons) Italian parsley, chopped, divided
  • 1 cup dry white wine

    Cook linguine in boiling water until al dente, about 10 minutes. Set aside. In large skillet, heat oil, then add chile, salt, and garlic. Sauté until garlic is golden. Add chicken and half the parsley; cook and stir until lightly browned. Over high heat, add wine, shaking pan. Reduce heat. Cook chicken and reduce wine sauce slightly. Drain linguine and add to chicken. Toss with remaining parsley. Makes 4 servings.


    Cuban Chicken

  • 2-1/2- to 3-pound broiler-fryer, halved or quartered
  • 1 head garlic (1-1/2 ounces), finely minced
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon instant chicken bouillon
  • 1-1/2 tablespoons prepared mustard
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice
  • 1 cup boiling water (about)
  • 1 onion, thinly sliced
  • Cooked rice

    Remove excess fat from chicken. In glass dish, combine garlic, oil, bouillon, mustard, and lemon juice. Add chicken, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Place chicken on rack in shallow roasting pan. Add boiling water to pan.

    Broil 6 inches from heat, 5 minutes on each side, then roast at 375° for 45 minutes, basting with all the marinade, until chicken is browned and tender. Add onion to liquid for last 15 minutes. Spoon sauce over chicken and rice. Makes 4 servings.


    Provencale Tapenade

    Most tapenade is an olive-only spread, but this light recipe version combines roasted eggplant with Kalamata olives.

  • 1-pound eggplant
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1-1/2 cups pitted Kalamata olives
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
  • Crackers, toast, or breadsticks

    Pierce eggplant all over with a long fork. Place eggplant in ridged iron skillet, heated smoking hot. Grill, turning occasionally, until soft and blackened, about 30 minutes. Cool until easy to handle; peel, then cut into pieces.

    In food processor, chop garlic, then olives. Add eggplant; blend well. Add olive oil and vinegar; process until smooth. Place in bowl; cover and refrigerate.

    Serve with crackers, toast, or breadsticks. Makes about 2 cups.


    HERBED OIL

  • 2 cups light olive oil
  • 4 6-inch sprigs fresh marjoram
  • 4 3-inch sprigs rosemary
  • 2 bay leaves

    In decorative jars, combine olive oil with herbs. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 5 days before using. Store in refrigerator. Makes 2 cups.

    GARLIC OIL

  • 2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • 1-1/2 cups light olive oil

    In decorative bottles, combine garlic and oil. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, until fragrant. Strain, reserving garlic for another use. Store in refrigerator. Makes 1-1/2 cups.

    CHILE OIL

  • 4 hot red chiles
  • 2 cups light olive oil, or olive oil and canola oil blend

    Stem, seed, and coarsely chop chiles. In blender, combine chiles and oil. Process to puree, about 2 minutes. Strain oil, discarding residue. Pour into decorative bottles. Cover and refrigerate. Makes 2 cups.

    GINGER OR CURRY OIL

  • 4 tablespoons ground ginger or curry powder
  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 1 cup light olive oil

    In a bowl, whisk ginger with water to form a paste. Gradually whisk in oil. Pour into a jar and let stand, covered, at room temperature for at least 2 days. Pour oil into a decorative bottle, discarding residue. Cover and refrigerate. Makes 1 cup.

    CITRUS OIL

  • 1/4 cup shredded lemon zest, loosely packed
  • 1/4 cup shredded orange zest, loosely packed
  • 2 cups light olive oil

    In blender, combine zest and oil. Puree 2 minutes. Strain. Pour into decorative bottles. Cover and refrigerate. Makes 2 cups.

    MARINATED OLIVES

  • 8 ounces Kalamata olives and cracked green olives
  • Zest of 1 lemon, cut into thin strips 1 inch long
  • 2 cloves garlic, slivered
  • 1 sprig fresh oregano
  • Extra-virgin olive oil

    Rinse olives in cold water. Turn them out onto clean kitchen towel and pat dry. Place olives, lemon rind, garlic, and oregano in a decorative 1-1/2-cup jar. Add olive oil to cover. Cover and refrigerate. To serve, remove olives with tongs and drain oil.