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by Lorraine Shapiro photos by Michael Tov As we light candles at Chanukah to symbolize the rededication of the the Temple, the miracle of the oil is also celebrated in the kitchen. Potato latkes are traditional, not because of the potato (it was unknown in Israel during the time of the Temple), but because of the oil used for frying. Potatoes—nutritious, convenient, inexpensive and versatile—can be baked, mashed, and boiled, as well as fried at Chanukah. In another era and area, the ancient Incas of Peru cultivated potatoes. Brought to the Old World by early European explorers, potatoes influenced the cuisine of many countries, moving from Ireland across the continent to Russia. What pasta is to the Italians and rice to the Chinese, potatoes have been to the Germans and Irish, who introduced them into North America. With a reputation as a poor man’s food, the humble tuber has gained prestige as we rediscovered that it provides protein, fiber, minerals and vitamins B1, B2 and C with only 115 calories for a 6-ounce size. The most popular vegetable in this country, we consume some 120 pounds per person yearly, with about 65 percent of the crop grown in the West. That’s almost a potato a day. Convenience foods of potato chips and frozen fries have spurred interest. In addition to common varieties of russets, thin-skinned long whites, round whites and reds, little new potatoes and golden sweets, the harvest of spuds comes in paintbox colors from deep blue to buttery yellow.
Potatoes vary in starch content which determines texture and use. High starch russets have a mealy texture, thus are ideal for baking. Waxy potatoes such as round reds and whites, lowest in starch, are especially good for boiling or in potato salad. Yukon Golds are in the middle of the starch spectrum, making them especially good for mashing.
Russet
Round Red
Round White
Long White
New
Yukon Gold
Yellow Finn
Peruvian Blue
All Blue
Buying:
Storing:
Cooking:
Recipes
Golden Potato Gratin
GOLDEN POTATO GRATIN
Coat a 1 1/2-quart casserole, 8 inches across by 2 1/2 inches deep with butter. Arrange half the potatoes, slightly overlapping slices, in circles in casserole. In medium saucepan, scald cream and milk with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pour half over potatoes. Add remaining potatoes, filling dish about 3/4 full, then pour on rest of cream mixture to barely cover potatoes. Top with Swiss cheese. Bake, uncovered, at 425 degrees 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees, bake 1 hour longer or until potatoes are tender, liquid is absorbed, top is browned. Makes 6 servings.
OVEN FRIES
In 10x15-inch jelly roll pan, heat margarine and oil at 425 degrees until hot. Place single layer of potatoes in pan. Bake at 425 degrees 15 minutes, turn and bake about 15 minutes longer or until well browned. Makes 4 servings.
POTATO WAFFLES
POTATO BREAD
Boil potatoes until tender, drain, reserving 1 cup water. In small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. Set aside. In large bowl, mash potatoes to make 1 1/2 cups, force through a sieve. Add shortening to hot mashed potatoes, stir until melted. Add 1 cup hot potato water, sugar, salt and milk. Blend lightly. Add yeast mixture, stir and add 2 cups of the flour. Beat until smooth. Gradually stir in about 3 1/2 more cups flour, until it becomes too difficult to stir. Turn out onto lightly floured surface to knead about 8 minutes, with a bread hook 6 minutes, adding enough flour to make a firm, elastic dough. Place in greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and damp towel. Place in warm place to rise until doubled, about 45 minutes. Punch down dough, turn onto floured surface, divide in two. Knead lightly, shape into rounds. Press into well-floured bannetons (baking baskets), if desired, or place each on greased baking sheets. Cover with oiled plastic wrap and towel. Put in warm place until dough reaches top of basket or freeform dough is doubled, about 45 minutes. Turn out dough from baskets onto greased baking sheets and let rise a while longer, until doubled. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake about 35 minutes longer, or until golden brown. Turn baking sheets, if needed, to brown evenly. Cover top with foil if browning too rapidly. Remove bread to racks to cool. Makes 2 large loaves.
SWEET POTATO OVEN FRIES
In 10x15-inch jelly roll pan, heat margarine and oil at 400 degrees until hot. Place potato strips in ice water while cutting remaining strips. Place single layer of potatoes in pan. Bake at 400 degrees 15 minutes, turn and bake about 15 minutes longer or until browned. Makes 4 servings. NOTE: To deep fry, in deep-fryer or heavy pan, heat at least 2 inches oil to 375 degrees. Fry small amount of potatoes at one time until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Keep warm in 300 degree oven. Makes 4 servings.
SALADE NIÇOISE
In a small bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and mustard. Pour 1/4 cup dressing over tuna in shallow dish. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 2 hours, turning once. In large bowl, combine hot potatoes, green onion, salt, pepper and wine. Toss gently. Let stand 5 minutes, toss again. Add 3 tablespoons dressing and toss gently. Cover and refrigerate. Marinate green beans in a little dressing and refrigerate. Remove fish from marinade. Broil or grill 3-inches from heat, 4 minutes on each side, until fish begins to flake, basting occasionally with marinade. Cut each into 2 or 3 servings. Line a platter with lettuce. Arrange potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, eggs, yolk side up, and tuna in separate mounds. Top tuna with anchovies and capers. Sprinkle potato salad with parsley. Drizzle with dressing, serve remaining dressing on the side. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Note: Discard any leftover marinade.
POTATOES ANNA
Peel potatoes, slice thinly into 1/8-inch rounds. Dry on paper towels. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in 8-inch heavy oven-proof skillet, tilting to coat sides. Arrange potato slices overlapping in ring on bottom, then center. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dot with butter. Arrange layers of potatoes, seasonings and butter until all is used and pan is full. Cover with foil and press potatoes down firmly. Remove foil. Heat skillet over moderate heat about 10 minutes, until browned on bottom. Then bake in center of 400 degree oven 25 minutes, until potatoes are tender, pressing down occasionally with foil. Remove from oven. Loosen edges and bottom with spatula. Flip out onto platter. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve cut into wedges. Makes 4 servings. NOTE: Do not soak sliced potatoes in water. Soaking robs them of starch which is necessary to hold the potato cake together. Pressing the potatoes down firmly also helps them retain their shape when unmolded.
POTATO-CRUSTED CHICKEN
Rinse chicken and trim off excess fat. Pour salad dressing into non-aluminum baking pan. Marinate chicken 1 hour or longer in refrigerator. In a plastic bag, combine potato flakes, sesame seeds, salt, paprika, rosemary, thyme, pepper, onion and garlic powder. Shake a few chicken pieces at a time in bag to coat. Place in a 9x13-inch baking pan sprayed with non-stick spray. Drizzle with marinade. Bake at 375 degrees 25 minutes, turn chicken and bake 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until done. Serve hot or cold. Makes 4 servings.
POTATO KNISHES
Pastry: For pastry, combine flour and butter in food processor, blending until crumbly. Mix in cottage cheese until well blended. Chill several hours or overnight. Sauté onions in half the butter until golden and tender. Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, about 30 minutes, drain and mash. Add onions and butter to potatoes. Mix well. Add salt and pepper. Cover and chill. Roll out dough on well-floured board 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 3-1/2 inch rounds. Place a spoonful of potato filling on each. Draw edges together, pinch to seal. Dent center slightly. Place on greased baking sheet. Bake at 425 degrees about 20 minutes until golden. Serve hot. Makes about 2 dozen.
CHILE CHEESE STUFFED POTATOES
Scrub potatoes, pierce in several places with a skewer or fork. Place on baking sheet or oven rack. Roast at 400 degrees 45 to 60 minutes until potato feels soft when squeezed with protected fingers. Cut off top 1/2-inch and scoop out potato, place in bowl. Discard skin from top. Scoop out center of bottom part, leaving 1/4-inch shell. Place potato in bowl. Mash potato, beat in butter, milk, salt and pepper until fluffy. Add chiles and 1 1/2 cups cheese. Mound mixture into shells. Place on baking sheet. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees 20 minutes until tops are golden brown. Makes 6 servings.
POTATO LEEK SOUP
In large saucepan, combine broth, leeks, potato, onion and garlic. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, simmer 30 to 40 minutes until vegetables are tender. Purée in food processor. Return to saucepan. Stir in cream, season with salt, pepper, cajun seasoning and nutmeg. Serve hot, sprinkle with chives. Makes 6 servings. Note: May be covered and refrigerated to serve cold.
POTATO CARROT KUGELETTES
In food processor, coarsely shred potatoes. Place in a bowl with water to cover. In large mixing bowl, beat egg substitute lightly. Stir in matzo meal, oil, baking powder, sugar, salt and pepper. Drain potatoes, spread on a clean kitchen towel and squeeze to remove as much water as possible. Stir potatoes, carrots, onion and parsley into egg mixture, blending well. Spoon into muffin cups well coated with non-stick cooking spray, packing lightly. Bake at 375 degrees 45 minutes or until sides are browned and mixture is firm. Carefully loosen with spatula and remove from cups. Serve hot. Makes 12.
PERFECT POTATO SALAD
In large saucepan of boiling water, cook potatoes in their jackets 35 minutes, or until tender. Drain, rinse with cold water. Peel, slice, place in large mixing bowl. Sprinkle with salad dressing and vinegar. Add mustard, seasoned salt, pepper and onion. Toss to combine. Refrigerate until cold. Add mayonnaise, eggs, celery and half the parsley. Cover and refrigerate, if made in advance. Transfer to serving bowl. Sprinkle top with remaining parsley. Makes 6 servings.
GARLIC MASHED POTATOES
In large saucepan of boiling water, cook potatoes 20 to 25 minutes, or until tender. Meanwhile, heat cream with butter, mashed garlic, salt, pepper and cheese. Drain and mash potatoes. Gradually add cream mixture, beating until fluffy. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
GORGONZOLA FRIES
In a small heavy saucepan, bring cream to a boil and reduce by half. Add 2 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola, heat and stir until melted, then simmer 5 minutes. Meanwhile, peel potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch strips. Place in ice water while cutting remaining strips. In deep-fryer or heavy pan, heat at least 2 inches oil to 380 degrees. Fry small amount of potatoes at one time until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Keep warm in 300 degree oven. Place fries on platter, pour on Gorgonzola sauce, sprinkle with black pepper, crumbled Gorgonzola and green onions. Makes 4 servings. Note: The sauce is good over baked potatoes, steamed cauliflower and broccoli, too.
SAVORY SIMMERED POTATOES
In large saucepan, heat olive oil, add garlic, parsley, rosemary, marjoram and pepper flakes. Sauté, stirring often, until garlic begins to color. Add potatoes, tomatoes, broth and salt. Bring to a boil, partially cover. Simmer until potatoes are tender and liquid is almost absorbed, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with basil. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
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