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by Lorraine Shapiro
photos by Michael Tov

As we light candles at Chanukah to symbolize the rededication of the the Temple, the miracle of the oil is also celebrated in the kitchen. Potato latkes are traditional, not because of the potato (it was unknown in Israel during the time of the Temple), but because of the oil used for frying. Potatoes—nutritious, convenient, inexpensive and versatile—can be baked, mashed, and boiled, as well as fried at Chanukah.

In another era and area, the ancient Incas of Peru cultivated potatoes. Brought to the Old World by early European explorers, potatoes influenced the cuisine of many countries, moving from Ireland across the continent to Russia. What pasta is to the Italians and rice to the Chinese, potatoes have been to the Germans and Irish, who introduced them into North America.

With a reputation as a poor man’s food, the humble tuber has gained prestige as we rediscovered that it provides protein, fiber, minerals and vitamins B1, B2 and C with only 115 calories for a 6-ounce size. The most popular vegetable in this country, we consume some 120 pounds per person yearly, with about 65 percent of the crop grown in the West. That’s almost a potato a day. Convenience foods of potato chips and frozen fries have spurred interest.

In addition to common varieties of russets, thin-skinned long whites, round whites and reds, little new potatoes and golden sweets, the harvest of spuds comes in paintbox colors from deep blue to buttery yellow.

POTATO PRIMER

Potatoes vary in starch content which determines texture and use. High starch russets have a mealy texture, thus are ideal for baking. Waxy potatoes such as round reds and whites, lowest in starch, are especially good for boiling or in potato salad. Yukon Golds are in the middle of the starch spectrum, making them especially good for mashing.

Russet
Oblong with flat ends / Netted brown skin / Dry and mealy / Highest in starch / Thick skin
Classic baker, but good all-purpose, French fries

Round Red
Round with red skin / Moist and waxy / Low in starch / Thin skin
Boiling, steaming, oven roasting, potato salad

Round White
Round / cream-colored skin / Waxy and firm / Low in starch / Thin skin
Boiling, steaming, scalloped, gratin, served whole

Long White
Oblong / thin, tan skin / Dry and mealy / Thin skin
All-purpose potato holds shape well, boiled, steamed

New
Small, round / Red or tan skin / Thin skin
Boiling, steaming, salads

Yukon Gold
Moist / yellow flesh / Stores well / Medium starch content / Soft skin
All purpose, good for mashing, good baker

Yellow Finn
Deep yellow flesh
Good baker

Peruvian Blue
Blue medium fingerling / Same taste as Yellow Finn
Boiling, steaming

All Blue
Lavender flesh, lusty flavor
Good baker

POTATOES 101

Buying:
Select potatoes that are smooth and firm to the touch.
Avoid any with wrinkles, sprouts, cracks, bruises, or green areas caused by too much exposure to light.
Buy only as many as you can use in a week.
Select ones with regular shapes, uniform sizes.

Storing:
Store in cool, dark, well-ventilated area.
Don’t wash. Don’t store in unventilated plastic bag.
Don’t refrigerate.

Cooking:
Leave skins on potatoes, if possible, for best nutrition. Scrub well. If necessary, pare thinly.
To retain white color, soak in cold water only briefly.
Long soaking robs them of vitamins.
Follow recipe directions.


Recipes

Golden Potato Gratin
Oven Fries
Potato Waffles
Potato Bread
Sweet Potato Oven Fries
Salade Nicoise
Potatoes Anna
Potato Crusted Chicken
Potato Knishes
Chile Cheese Stuffed Potatoes
Potato Leek Soup
Potato Carrot Kugelettes
Perfect Potato Salad
Garlic Mashed Potaoes
Gorgonzola Fries
Savory Simmered Potatoes


GOLDEN POTATO GRATIN

Soft butter

  • 1 3/4 to 2 pounds (5) waxy or russet potatoes, thinly sliced
  • 1 1/2 cups whipping cream
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
  • 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 3/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese

    Coat a 1 1/2-quart casserole, 8 inches across by 2 1/2 inches deep with butter. Arrange half the potatoes, slightly overlapping slices, in circles in casserole. In medium saucepan, scald cream and milk with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pour half over potatoes. Add remaining potatoes, filling dish about 3/4 full, then pour on rest of cream mixture to barely cover potatoes. Top with Swiss cheese. Bake, uncovered, at 425 degrees 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees, bake 1 hour longer or until potatoes are tender, liquid is absorbed, top is browned. Makes 6 servings.


    OVEN FRIES

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons pareve margarine
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons oil
  • 1 1/2 pounds russets, peeled, cut into 3/8-inch strips

    In 10x15-inch jelly roll pan, heat margarine and oil at 425 degrees until hot. Place single layer of potatoes in pan. Bake at 425 degrees 15 minutes, turn and bake about 15 minutes longer or until well browned. Makes 4 servings.


    POTATO WAFFLES

  • 2 medium (10 ounces total) russet potatoes, peeled, cooked
  • Pinch each white pepper, nutmeg
  • 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon onion salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 3/4 cup milk
  • 1/4 cup oil Mash potatoes, add pepper and nutmeg. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and salt. In another bowl, beat eggs well, whisk in milk and oil. Add all at once to flour mixture. Mix until smooth. Combine with potato mixture. Taste for seasoning. Ladle batter onto center of heated waffle iron. Bake about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes, or until golden. Makes 4 waffles.


    POTATO BREAD

  • 3 medium (total 1 pound) potatoes
  • 2 packages dry yeast
  • 1/2 cup warm water
  • 1/2 cup shortening
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1/4 cup non-fat dry milk
  • 6 cups unbleached or bread flour (about)

    Boil potatoes until tender, drain, reserving 1 cup water. In small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. Set aside. In large bowl, mash potatoes to make 1 1/2 cups, force through a sieve.

    Add shortening to hot mashed potatoes, stir until melted. Add 1 cup hot potato water, sugar, salt and milk. Blend lightly. Add yeast mixture, stir and add 2 cups of the flour. Beat until smooth.

    Gradually stir in about 3 1/2 more cups flour, until it becomes too difficult to stir. Turn out onto lightly floured surface to knead about 8 minutes, with a bread hook 6 minutes, adding enough flour to make a firm, elastic dough. Place in greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and damp towel. Place in warm place to rise until doubled, about 45 minutes. Punch down dough, turn onto floured surface, divide in two. Knead lightly, shape into rounds. Press into well-floured bannetons (baking baskets), if desired, or place each on greased baking sheets. Cover with oiled plastic wrap and towel. Put in warm place until dough reaches top of basket or freeform dough is doubled, about 45 minutes. Turn out dough from baskets onto greased baking sheets and let rise a while longer, until doubled. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake about 35 minutes longer, or until golden brown. Turn baking sheets, if needed, to brown evenly. Cover top with foil if browning too rapidly. Remove bread to racks to cool.

    Makes 2 large loaves.


    SWEET POTATO OVEN FRIES

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons pareve margarine
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons oil
  • 1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into 3/8-inch strips

    In 10x15-inch jelly roll pan, heat margarine and oil at 400 degrees until hot. Place potato strips in ice water while cutting remaining strips. Place single layer of potatoes in pan. Bake at 400 degrees 15 minutes, turn and bake about 15 minutes longer or until browned. Makes 4 servings.

    NOTE: To deep fry, in deep-fryer or heavy pan, heat at least 2 inches oil to 375 degrees. Fry small amount of potatoes at one time until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Keep warm in 300 degree oven. Makes 4 servings.


    SALADE NIÇOISE

  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard or 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
  • 2 6-ounce tuna fillets
  • 1 pound small thin-skinned potatoes, peeled, halved, sliced 3/8-inch
  • 1 tablespoon chopped green onion
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 pound thin green beans, blanched, chilled
  • 1 head Boston lettuce, washed and crisped
  • 2 or 3 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges
  • 2 or 3 hard-cooked eggs, quartered
  • 2-ounce can rolled anchovy fillets
  • 1/2 cup kalamata, Niçoise or ripe olives
  • 3 tablespoons minced parsley

    In a small bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and mustard. Pour 1/4 cup dressing over tuna in shallow dish. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 2 hours, turning once. In large bowl, combine hot potatoes, green onion, salt, pepper and wine. Toss gently. Let stand 5 minutes, toss again. Add 3 tablespoons dressing and toss gently. Cover and refrigerate.

    Marinate green beans in a little dressing and refrigerate. Remove fish from marinade. Broil or grill 3-inches from heat, 4 minutes on each side, until fish begins to flake, basting occasionally with marinade. Cut each into 2 or 3 servings.

    Line a platter with lettuce. Arrange potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, eggs, yolk side up, and tuna in separate mounds. Top tuna with anchovies and capers. Sprinkle potato salad with parsley. Drizzle with dressing, serve remaining dressing on the side. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

    Note: Discard any leftover marinade.


    POTATOES ANNA

  • 1 1/2 to 2 pounds baking potatoes
  • 4 to 5 tablespoons butter
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • Minced parsley

    Peel potatoes, slice thinly into 1/8-inch rounds. Dry on paper towels. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in 8-inch heavy oven-proof skillet, tilting to coat sides. Arrange potato slices overlapping in ring on bottom, then center. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dot with butter. Arrange layers of potatoes, seasonings and butter until all is used and pan is full. Cover with foil and press potatoes down firmly. Remove foil.

    Heat skillet over moderate heat about 10 minutes, until browned on bottom. Then bake in center of 400 degree oven 25 minutes, until potatoes are tender, pressing down occasionally with foil. Remove from oven. Loosen edges and bottom with spatula. Flip out onto platter. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve cut into wedges.

    Makes 4 servings.

    NOTE: Do not soak sliced potatoes in water. Soaking robs them of starch which is necessary to hold the potato cake together. Pressing the potatoes down firmly also helps them retain their shape when unmolded.


    POTATO-CRUSTED CHICKEN

  • 3 1/2-pound broiler-fryer parts
  • 1/2 cup Italian dressing
  • 1 cup dried potato flakes
  • 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 teaspoon minced rosemary
  • 1/2 teaspoon thyme
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

    Rinse chicken and trim off excess fat. Pour salad dressing into non-aluminum baking pan. Marinate chicken 1 hour or longer in refrigerator. In a plastic bag, combine potato flakes, sesame seeds, salt, paprika, rosemary, thyme, pepper, onion and garlic powder. Shake a few chicken pieces at a time in bag to coat.

    Place in a 9x13-inch baking pan sprayed with non-stick spray. Drizzle with marinade. Bake at 375 degrees 25 minutes, turn chicken and bake 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until done. Serve hot or cold. Makes 4 servings.


    POTATO KNISHES

    Pastry:

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • 8 ounces creamed small curd cottage cheese Filling:
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1 pound baking potatoes, peeled
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon pepper

    For pastry, combine flour and butter in food processor, blending until crumbly. Mix in cottage cheese until well blended. Chill several hours or overnight.

    Sauté onions in half the butter until golden and tender. Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, about 30 minutes, drain and mash. Add onions and butter to potatoes. Mix well.

    Add salt and pepper. Cover and chill.

    Roll out dough on well-floured board 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 3-1/2 inch rounds. Place a spoonful of potato filling on each.

    Draw edges together, pinch to seal. Dent center slightly. Place on greased baking sheet. Bake at 425 degrees about 20 minutes until golden.

    Serve hot. Makes about 2 dozen.


    CHILE CHEESE STUFFED POTATOES

  • 6 medium (6- to 8-ounce) russet potatoes
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1/4 cup milk (about)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 4-ounce can diced, long green chiles (mild), drained
  • 2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese

    Scrub potatoes, pierce in several places with a skewer or fork. Place on baking sheet or oven rack. Roast at 400 degrees 45 to 60 minutes until potato feels soft when squeezed with protected fingers.

    Cut off top 1/2-inch and scoop out potato, place in bowl. Discard skin from top. Scoop out center of bottom part, leaving 1/4-inch shell. Place potato in bowl. Mash potato, beat in butter, milk, salt and pepper until fluffy. Add chiles and 1 1/2 cups cheese.

    Mound mixture into shells. Place on baking sheet. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees 20 minutes until tops are golden brown. Makes 6 servings.


    POTATO LEEK SOUP

  • 4 cups vegetable broth
  • 1 pound (2 small) leeks, white part including the tender green, well washed, thinly sliced
  • 10 ounces potato (1 large), peeled, sliced
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced
  • 3 to 4 cups whipping cream
  • Salt, white pepper to taste
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon cajun seasoning
  • Dash nutmeg
  • Chopped chives or parsley

    In large saucepan, combine broth, leeks, potato, onion and garlic. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, simmer 30 to 40 minutes until vegetables are tender. Purée in food processor. Return to saucepan. Stir in cream, season with salt, pepper, cajun seasoning and nutmeg. Serve hot, sprinkle with chives. Makes 6 servings.

    Note: May be covered and refrigerated to serve cold.


    POTATO CARROT KUGELETTES

  • 3 medium (18 to 24-ounces total) russet potatoes, peeled
  • 6 tablespoons no-fat egg substitute
  • 3 tablespoons matzo meal
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons oil
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
  • 9 ounces carrots, shredded (3 medium)
  • 1/3 cup chopped onion
  • 3 tablespoons minced parsley

    In food processor, coarsely shred potatoes. Place in a bowl with water to cover. In large mixing bowl, beat egg substitute lightly. Stir in matzo meal, oil, baking powder, sugar, salt and pepper. Drain potatoes, spread on a clean kitchen towel and squeeze to remove as much water as possible. Stir potatoes, carrots, onion and parsley into egg mixture, blending well.

    Spoon into muffin cups well coated with non-stick cooking spray, packing lightly. Bake at 375 degrees 45 minutes or until sides are browned and mixture is firm. Carefully loosen with spatula and remove from cups. Serve hot. Makes 12.


    PERFECT POTATO SALAD

  • 1 1/4 pounds new potatoes (approx. 4-5)
  • 2 tablespoons Italian salad dressing
  • 2 tablespoons vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons prepared mustard
  • 1 teaspoon seasoned salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced onion
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise
  • 2 hard-cooked eggs, diced
  • 1 1/2 cups (4 stalks) diced celery
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley

    In large saucepan of boiling water, cook potatoes in their jackets 35 minutes, or until tender. Drain, rinse with cold water. Peel, slice, place in large mixing bowl. Sprinkle with salad dressing and vinegar. Add mustard, seasoned salt, pepper and onion. Toss to combine.

    Refrigerate until cold. Add mayonnaise, eggs, celery and half the parsley. Cover and refrigerate, if made in advance.

    Transfer to serving bowl. Sprinkle top with remaining parsley. Makes 6 servings.


    GARLIC MASHED POTATOES

  • 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut in chunks
  • 1/2 cup whipping cream
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons roasted garlic (6 large cloves)
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
  • 3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

    In large saucepan of boiling water, cook potatoes 20 to 25 minutes, or until tender. Meanwhile, heat cream with butter, mashed garlic, salt, pepper and cheese. Drain and mash potatoes. Gradually add cream mixture, beating until fluffy.

    Makes 4 to 6 servings.


    GORGONZOLA FRIES

  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • Gorgonzola cheese or other blue cheese
  • 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled, cut into French fries
  • Oil for frying
  • Black pepper
  • Chopped green onions

    In a small heavy saucepan, bring cream to a boil and reduce by half. Add 2 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola, heat and stir until melted, then simmer 5 minutes.

    Meanwhile, peel potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch strips. Place in ice water while cutting remaining strips. In deep-fryer or heavy pan, heat at least 2 inches oil to 380 degrees. Fry small amount of potatoes at one time until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

    Drain on paper towels. Keep warm in 300 degree oven. Place fries on platter, pour on Gorgonzola sauce, sprinkle with black pepper, crumbled Gorgonzola and green onions. Makes 4 servings.

    Note: The sauce is good over baked potatoes, steamed cauliflower and broccoli, too.


    SAVORY SIMMERED POTATOES

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
  • 1 teaspoon dried marjoram
  • Pinch red pepper flakes
  • 2 pounds russets, peeled, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
  • 1 cup peeled, seeded, diced tomatoes
  • 2/3 cup hot vegetable or meat stock
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Fresh basil, sliced julienne

    In large saucepan, heat olive oil, add garlic, parsley, rosemary, marjoram and pepper flakes. Sauté, stirring often, until garlic begins to color. Add potatoes, tomatoes, broth and salt. Bring to a boil, partially cover. Simmer until potatoes are tender and liquid is almost absorbed, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with basil. Makes 4 to 6 servings.