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Fishing for Compliments

Fishing for Compliments

Celebrity chefs are making headlines, opening trendy new restaurants frequented by the rich and famous. Some, like Emeril Lagasse, Michel Richard, and Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, known as the “Too Hot Tamales,” have become household words.

Can dishes by these top chefs at leading restaurants be adapted for kosher cooking at home? Recipes from the cookbook, “The Great Chefs of America Cook Kosher,” by Idee Schoenheimer and Ruth Madoff (Vital Media Enterprises), show that foods can be both contemporary and kosher at the same time.

Perhaps there is no better time to start than with fish at Rosh Hashanah while sharing good wishes for the year ahead. And a light dairy meal with chilled fish in some form is appealing and easily served after the fast on Yom Kippur.

Even authentic Cajun-Creole cuisine is within reach with Emeril Lagasse, chef-owner of Emeril’s and Nola’s in New Orleans. This innovative young chef, who is putting the “new” in New Orleans cuisine, has taken the classic pompano en papillote, and reinterpreted it in a lighter style, punctuated with cajun seasoning.

Michel Richard serves the luncheon favorite tunaburger of hand-chopped tuna on brioche at his California-casual Citrus on Melrose in Los Angeles. A few miles away in Santa Monica, Border Grill’s Feniger and Milliken, who are known for their adventurous way with Latin flavors, like the simplicity of grilled tuna with tomato salsa and spinach pesto.

To serve these dishes with fleishig meals, please substitute margarine for butter, and non-dairy cream for cream in several of the following recipes. Due to its high water content, low-fat margarine is not recommended as a substitute for butter.


Recipes

Emeril's Pompano En Papillote
Border Grill Tuna with Tomato and Spinach Pesto
Citrus Tunaburgers
Pickled Slamon
Lox Spread on Bagels
Poached Eggs with Salmon and Spinach
Cioppino
Tuna and Bean Salad
Salmon Spring Rolls
Barbecued Salmon Salad
Oriental-Style White Fish
Broiled Albacore with Fruit Salsa
Orange Roughy with Creamy piccata Sauce
Hazelnut Crusted Halibut with Pepper Sauce
Penne with Mahi in Tomato Cream
Poached Salmon with Dill


Springtime Fruit Cup

  • 1-1/2 cups water
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 4 cloves
  • 1/2 cinnamon stick
  • 1/4 pound dried apricots, halved
  • 1/4 pound dried peaches, halved
  • 1/4 small pineapple, peeled, cut in small wedges
  • 1/2 pound cherries (fresh if in season, or frozen), pitted
  • 1 pear, sliced
  • 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 basket blackberries
  • Cinnamon (optional)

    In medium saucepan, combine water, sugar, cloves, and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add apricots and peaches. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add pineapple, cherries, and pear, and cook 5 minutes longer, until just tender. Stir in lemon juice and berries. Refrigerate. Remove spices. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Makes 4 to 6 servings.


    EMERIL’S POMPANO EN PAPILLOTE

  • 2 1/2 tablespoons paprika
  • 2 tablespoons garlic powder
  • 1 tablespoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon dried leaf oregano
  • 2 tablespoons salt
  • 1 tablespoon black pepper or to taste
  • 1 tablespoon cayenne or to taste
  • 1 tablespoon dried leaf thyme
  • 4 8-ounce pompano or snapper fillets
  • 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil or to taste
  • 4 12-inch squares parchment paper
  • 8 tablespoons unsalted butter (optional)
  • 8 Roma tomatoes, sliced
  • 1 medium yellow onion, sliced
  • 8 tablespoons julienned basil
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic

    Combine seasonings in air-tight jar. Rub each pompano fillet with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon seasoning. Fold parchment in half, cut into shape of heart. Open parchment, coat completely with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place 2 tablespoons butter in center of one side of the heart. Place seasoned fish top down over butter. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons seasoning or to taste, then 1/4 of the tomato, onion, basil and garlic. Fold heart in half covering fish and vegetables. Starting at round end, fold over edges of the paper in an overlapping pattern until entire bag is sealed. Fold over tail end of bag, press all folds tightly. Repeat. Place on baking sheet, bake at 425 degrees 12 to 15 minutes until bag inflates and turns light brown. Place on plates immediately, open at table. Makes 4 servings.

    NOTE: Or cut parchment into 15-inch squares. Arrange ingredients as directed, then fold long edge of parchment over filling, then fold forward several times, pressing to crease, sealing edge. Double-fold ends of packet. Place seam side down on baking sheet.


    BORDER GRILL TUNA WITH TOMATO AND SPINACH PESTO

  • 8 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, diced
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 2 teaspoons salt, about
  • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper, about
  • 1 bunch spinach, stemmed, washed and dried
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 6 7-ounce tuna fillets

    In a bowl, combine tomatoes, 1/3 cup olive oil, 1-1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover and refrigerate. For pesto, heat remaining olive oil in large skillet over high heat, add spinach, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook until spinach begins to wilt. Add garlic, and cook and stir until aroma is released. Purée in food processor or blender until smooth, adding liquid in pan if needed.

    Chill.

    Season fish with salt and pepper. Grill 3 to 6 minutes per side, the center should still be pink. Arrange tomatoes on plate. Using a squirt bottle or spoon, make strips of spinach pesto over tomatoes. Top with tuna. Serve at once. Makes 6 servings.


    CITRUS TUNABURGERS

  • 1 3/4- to 2-pound fresh, well chilled tuna fillet
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 4 anchovies, minced
  • 1/4 cup minced fresh basil
  • Salt, freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 2 tablespoons white vinegar
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/3 cup minced green onion
  • 1/4 cup minced red onion
  • 2 tablespoons minced chives
  • 4 brioche or kaiser rolls, halved
  • 1 large tomato, very thinly sliced
  • 4 leaves lettuce, preferably butter

    Trim off dark, oily portions from tuna. Thinly slice tuna, then chop using a large, sharp knife to texture of hamburger and it presses into a compact ball. In a bowl, mix tuna, garlic, 4 tablespoons olive oil, anchovies, basil, salt and pepper to taste. Divide mixture into 4 balls, shape into 1-inch thick patties. Place patties on baking sheet lined with waxed paper. If made in advance, cover and refrigerate until 30 minutes before cooking.

    In a bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, vinegar and cream. Whisk in two tablespoons of oil in slow, thin stream. Stir in green and red onion and chives. Season with salt and pepper. Heat buns, spread with mayonnaise mixture, line half with tomato and lettuce. Meanwhile, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a heavy, large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Add tuna patties and cook about 1-1/2 minutes per side for medium-rare, longer for well done. Place in buns and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.


    PICKLED SALMON

  • 1 1/2 cups white vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 pound salmon fillet, skin and bones removed
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons mixed pickling spice
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 2 medium onions, sliced 1/4-inch thick

    In a non-reactive saucepan, combine vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool completely. Cut salmon into 1x2-inch pieces. In a glass baking dish or crock, layer salmon, pickling spice, bay leaves and onion. Repeat layering until everything is used. Pour cooled marinade over fish. Cover and refrigerate 3 to 4 days. Turn occasionally. Serve salmon with some of its marinade. Makes 6 to 8 servings.


    LOX SPREAD ON BAGELS

  • 8-ounce package soft cream cheese
  • 1 1/2 ounces smoked salmon or smoked salmon trimmings, chopped
  • Few drops lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon snipped chives or green onion
  • 4 water bagels
  • 4 thin slices tomato
  • 2 thin slices red onion, in rings
  • 1 tablespoon capers

    In a small bowl, combine cream cheese, salmon, lemon juice and chives. Slice bagels in half and toast lightly. Spread with salmon mixture, top with tomato, onion and capers. Serve open face. Makes 4 servings.


    POACHED EGGS WITH SALMON AND SPINACH

  • 2 egg yolks
  • Dash cayenne
  • 1/2 cup melted butter
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 bunch spinach, washed, stemmed
  • Salt, pepper
  • 2 English muffins, split, toasted
  • 3-ounce package smoked salmon
  • 4 eggs, poached

    In electric mixer, beat egg yolks until thick and lemon colored. Add cayenne. Add half the melted butter, a teaspoon at a time, beating constantly. Combine remaining melted butter and lemon juice. Slowly add, about 2 teaspoons at a time, beating constantly. Set Hollandaise Sauce aside in warm place.

    In large skillet or wok, heat olive oil, add garlic, sauté briefly until aromatic, add spinach, sauté and toss just until wilted. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Place toasted English muffin half on each plate, cover with smoked salmon, well-drained spinach, then a poached egg. Top with Hollandaise Sauce. Serve at once. Makes 4 servings.


    CIOPPINO

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 large shallots, minced
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • 2 large Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, sliced
  • 1 large red bell pepper, sliced
  • 1 large green bell pepper, sliced
  • 1 jalapeno, finely chopped
  • 1 cup dry red wine
  • 6 tablespoons orange juice
  • 2-inch strip orange zest
  • 1 quart fish stock
  • 1/2 cup marinara sauce
  • 1 small bay leaf
  • 12 peppercorns
  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon thyme
  • 2 pounds seabass or snapper, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

    In large kettle, heat olive oil, add garlic, shallots and onion. Sauté until tender. Add tomatoes and peppers. Deglaze pan with wine, orange juice and zest. Stir in fish stock, marinara sauce, bay leaf, peppercorns, cayenne and thyme. Simmer gently 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add fish, cover and cook 5 to 10 minutes, just until fish flakes. Remove bay leaf and orange zest. Serve in deep bowls with crusty French bread. Makes 4 servings.


    TUNA AND BEAN SALAD

  • 15-ounce can or 2 cups cooked white beans
  • 15-ounce can or 2 cups cooked black beans
  • 1/2 red bell pepper, diced
  • 1/2 cup chopped red onion
  • 2 7-ounce cans solid white tuna, drained
  • 2 large cloves garlic, minced
  • Salt
  • 1/3 cup olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Chopped parsley

    Drain and rinse beans. Place in serving dish, add red pepper, onion and tuna, breaking it into large flakes with a fork. Mash garlic with salt, combine with oil, vinegar, oregano and pepper to taste. Toss bean mixture with dressing. Sprinkle with parsley. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings.


    SALMON SPRING ROLLS

  • 8-ounce salmon fillet, finely chopped
  • 2 green onions, sliced thin
  • 1 small carrot, diced fine
  • 1/4 small red pepper, diced fine
  • 1/4 bunch (2 tablespoons) mint leaves, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon sesame seed, toasted
  • Pinch black pepper
  • Spring roll wrappers
  • 1/4 cup soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons finely diced cucumber
  • 1 tablespoon finely diced carrot
  • 1 tablespoon finely diced red pepper
  • Oil for frying

    In a bowl, combine salmon, green onions, carrot, red pepper, mint, soy, sesame oil and seed and pepper. Lightly wet edges of each spring roll wrapper with water. Placing the wrapper in front of you in a diamond configuration (top point A, left point B, right point D, point closest to you C), place a spoonful of filling crosswise forming a log, closest to point C. Fold point C up over filling, fold points B and D into center, lightly roll into cigar shape from bottom to point A and press wet edges together to seal.

    In another bowl, combine soy, vinegar, sugar, cilantro, cucumber, carrot and red pepper. Chill. In a wok, heat oil to 350 degrees. Fry spring rolls 2 at a time until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Serve with dipping sauce. Makes 8 rolls.


    BARBECUED SALMON SALAD

  • 1 head Boston lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
  • 1 bunch watercress, stemmed
  • 1 small cucumber, thinly sliced
  • 2 small green onions, thinly sliced
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • 4 1/2 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon sugar
  • 6 ounces barbecued salmon or cod, broken into chunks
  • Dill sprigs

    In large bowl, combine lettuce, watercress, cucumber and green onions. In another bowl, mix together cream, 3-1/2 tablespoons lime juice, dill, salt, pepper and sugar. Toss greens lightly with dressing. Divide between chilled plates. Arrange fish on top. Drizzle with remaining lime juice. Garnish with dill. Makes 6 servings.


    ORIENTAL-STYLE WHITE FISH

  • 1/4 cup soy sauce
  • 1/4 cup sesame oil
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon minced gingerroot
  • 4 7-ounce whitefish fillets
  • 1 mango, peeled, seeded, diced
  • Cilantro
  • 2 teaspoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • Salt, pepper to taste
  • Sesame seeds
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 cup fish stock

    In glass baking dish, combine soy, sesame oil, garlic and ginger. Place fish in dish, turning to coat. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 2 to 4 hours, turning once. Meanwhile, combine mango with 2 sprigs minced cilantro leaves, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Set aside. Remove fish from marinade, coat well with sesame seeds. Sear on both sides in hot skillet. Add wine and fish stock. Cover and simmer 1 to 2 minutes or until fish just flakes. Place on plates, keep warm. Boil sauce rapidly to reduce, spoon over fish, top with salsa. Garnish with cilantro sprigs. Makes 4 servings.


    BROILED ALBACORE WITH FRUIT SALSA

  • 1/2 cup finely diced pineapple
  • 1/2 cup finely diced apple
  • 1/4 cup diced bell pepper, preferably red
  • 6 tablespoons minced cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons brown sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped gingerroot
  • Salt, pepper
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/4 cup pineapple juice
  • 1 tablespoon dry white wine
  • Salt, pepper
  • 1 teaspoon minced gingerroot
  • 4 7-ounce albacore fillets

    In a bowl, combine pineapple, apple, bell pepper, cilantro, soy, lemon juice, brown sugar, ginger, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes or longer.

    In shallow dish, combine olive oil, pineapple juice, wine, salt, pepper and ginger. Place fish in marinade, turning to coat. Marinate 30 minutes. Grill or broil fish 4 minutes per side, until it flakes when touched with a fork. Serve with fruit salsa. Makes 4 servings.

    ORANGE ROUGHY WITH CREAMY PICCATA SAUCE

  • 4 6- to 8-ounce orange roughy fillets
  • Seasoned salt, pepper to taste
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon melted butter

    Sauce:

  • 2 teaspoons butter
  • 1 teaspoon (2 cloves) minced garlic
  • 2 teaspoons flour
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1 cup whipping cream, hot
  • 1 tablespoon capers
  • Chopped parsley

    Season fillets with salt and pepper. Place one layer deep in large baking pan, turning thin end under. Pour wine over fish. Brush with melted butter. Bake at 400 degrees about 8 minutes or until fish is no longer translucent and flakes with a fork.

    For sauce: In small saucepan, melt butter, add garlic and sauté over medium heat 1 minute until golden. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly 1 minute. Stir in wine and lemon juice. Reduce by half. Whisk in hot cream, bring to a boil while stirring. Boil rapidly until reduced to sauce consistency. Add capers, salt and pepper to taste and 1 teaspoon parsley. Place fish on serving plates. Spoon sauce over fish including some capers in each serving. Sprinkle with more parsley. Makes 4 servings.


    HAZELNUT CRUSTED HALIBUT WITH PEPPER SAUCE

  • 2 red bell peppers
  • 1/2 cup butter, divided (about)
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced
  • 2 teaspoons minced shallot
  • 3/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
  • 1/2 cup finely ground hazelnuts
  • 4 6-ounce halibut fillets, 3/4-inch thick
  • 3 tablespoons milk
  • Lemon pepper

    Blacken red pepper over open flame or in broiler on all sides. Place in plastic bag until cool. Remove skin and seeds, cut into strips. In medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter, sauté pepper with garlic and shallot. Add wine and reduce by half. Puree in food processor or blender. Set aside.

    In shallow dish, combine bread crumbs and nuts. Moisten fish in milk, sprinkle with pepper, coat both sides with crumb mixture. In large oven-proof skillet, heat remaining butter over medium high heat to sizzling, brown fish on both sides. Place in 350 degree oven a few minutes or until fish just flakes. Spoon pepper sauce on plates, top with fish. Makes 4 servings.

    Note: To remove skins from hazelnuts, toast at 350 degrees 15 to 20 minutes. Place on towel and rub off skins.


    PENNE WITH MAHI MAHI IN TOMATO CREAM

  • 8 ounces penne pasta
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon chopped shallot
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced
  • 2 Roma tomatoes, diced
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 teaspoon lime juice
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly chopped dill
  • 8 ounces mahi mahi fillet, cut into small pieces
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • Salt, pepper
  • Chopped parsley

    In large kettle, cook penne in boiling salted water 8 to 10 minutes, until al dente. Meanwhile, in skillet, heat olive oil, add shallot and garlic, and sauté until tender. Add tomatoes, wine, lime juice and dill, cook 4 to 5 minutes. Add mahi mahi and cook until almost done. Add cream. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss pasta with fish mixture. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 4 servings.


    POACHED SALMON WITH DILL

  • 4 6-ounce salmon fillets
  • 1 cup Chardonnay or other dry white wine
  • 2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot
  • Salt, pepper to taste
  • 1/2 cup whipping cream
  • 2 teaspoons finely chopped dill
  • Dill sprigs

    Rinse salmon, remove stray bones with tweezers. Place salmon in large skillet, add wine, shallot, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in 500 degree oven and poach 7 minutes, until flesh turns opaque. Remove salmon and keep warm. Add cream and dill to liquid in pan, boil rapidly until reduced to sauce consistency.

    Taste and add more seasoning, if needed. Serve salmon, topped with sauce. Garnish with dill sprigs. Makes 4 servings.


    FISH FACTS FISH FACTS FISH FACTS FISH FACTS FISH FACTS

    BUYING: While only fish with fins and scales are kosher, it’s best to buy from a store familiar with kosher fish types. Most fish is sold ready to cook as fillets or steaks, sometimes whole. Check packaged, canned and smoked products for reliable certification of kashrut.

    Plan on 1/3 to 1/2 pound per person for fish fillets or steaks, 1/2 to 1 pound of whole or cleaned fish. No salting needed.

    Freshness is the key to quality. Fish should smell ocean fresh. Flesh should look moist and lustrous. Gills are clean and red, scales are shiny and tight to the skin. Next to fresh fish, frozen is best. Most markets thaw frozen fish before displaying it: it should be labeled either fresh or frozen defrosted. If previously frozen, do not refreeze.

    STORING: Rush fresh fish home from market or transport in a cooler chest with ice. Rinse under cool running water, cover with wet paper towels, place in a container and refrigerate. Use on the day purchased, if possible, but hold no longer than 2 days. Store frozen fish in freezer up to 2 months. For best flavor, cook frozen fish without thawing or thaw in refrigerator.

    Fish COOKING METHODS: Size, texture, taste and fat determine cooking method. Thin, delicate flounders and sole are best pan-fried with flour coating or poached. Most fish can be baked, broiled, fried, grilled, poached or steamed Chinese-style. Thick cuts of more dense varieties can be grilled on skewers or even stir-fried. See recipes for directions.

    NUTRITION: Prized not only as a delicacy, fish is an excellent low-calorie source of high-quality protein. A 6-ounce serving of lean fish supplies about 2/3 of the Recommended Daily Allowance of protein for only 200 calories.

    Oil-rich fish such as salmon or tuna tally about 400 calories, comparable to lean meat. Fish richest in oil have the highest level of the polyunsaturated fatty acid, omega 3, considered beneficial for lowering blood cholesterol.

    Fish contain important minerals and vitamins, especially B vitamins, potassium, magnesium and phosphorous. Saltwater fish also supply iodine. Most fish are low in sodium, except salted, dried, pickled and smoked products. Canned salmon, sardines and herring eaten with the soft bones, provide calcium.