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by Lorraine Shapiro photos by Michael Tov The High Holidays invite anticipation of savory stews and roasts that fill the house with beguiling aromas, tables laid with fine china, and family get-togethers. Yet a holiday dinner of meat and potatoes can be heavy and uninteresting, if the same dishes are prepared each year. Although some strive to re-create Bubbie's best recipes at Rosh Hashanah — challah, brisket, tzimmes, knishes, apple cake — times have changed. Today cooks are daring with their seasoning, using more cumin, cinnamon, garlic, and bay leaf than ever before, and they are more interested in ethnic cuisine. With increased exposure to foreign foods on trips abroad and a wealth of new ideas coming to us from immigrants, we’ve expanded our culinary horizons. Lamb Tagine that’s served by Moroccan Jews in America for lunch at Rosh Hashanah, Olmendigas favored by Spanish Sephardim, even a Lentil Pate from San Antonio are intriguing possibilities for our table. Over the past decade Mexican and Oriental dishes have become increasingly popular. Thai Style Chicken Wings with a seasoned chicken filling are a novel dish. Generations of home cooks from Central and Eastern Europe have favorite ways with gedempte fleish. We’ve updated pot-roasted Beef Brisket with a grape jelly glaze and sweetened hot Beet Borscht with honey, symbolizing the hope for a sweet New Year.
Recipes
Thai Stuffed Chicken Wings
Thai Stuffed
Chicken Wings
PICKLED CUCUMBERS
In a bowl, combine chicken, soy, cilantro, green onions, garlic, sugar, and pepper. Let stand while de-boning chicken wings. Starting at large end of wing, carefully push meat down bone with a small sharp knife, being sure that the skin remains attached to the meat. Do not pierce skin. At joint, use point of knife to work meat away from bone and tendons. Continue along entire length of wing. Discard bones. Divide chicken mixture evenly among wings, packing lightly but firmly and folding skin over to secure. Heat oil to 375°. Fry a few wings at a time, about 7 to 10 minutes, until golden brown and filling is cooked. Drain on paper towels. Keep warm in low oven while frying the rest. Serve with Pickled Cucumbers. Makes 12. For Pickled Cucumbers: Combine lemon juice, brown sugar, and soy; stir in cucumber and mix well. Sprinkle with carrot.
Olmendigas Soup
Separate egg whites from yolks. Chop each separately. In a bowl, combine meat, yolks, rice, bread crumbs, green onion, olives, salt, pepper, rosemary, cloves, and cinnamon. Mix well. After wetting hands, shape into 16 to 18 meatballs with 2 or 3 raisins in center of each. In large saucepan, combine broth, tomato sauce, chili powder, and meatballs. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes, until meatballs are done and flavors blend. Stir in egg whites. Ladle into bowls. Garnish with additional olives and green onion, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Coconut Sea Bass
In a bowl, combine onion, green and red pepper, lemon juice, water, and salt and pepper. Let stand 2 hours, or cover and refrigerate up to 3 days. In large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; sauté until onion is tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon each cumin and pepper. Stir coconut milk into pan; bring to a boil over high heat. Add potatoes. Cover and simmer, turning several times, until tender when pierced, about 20 to 25 minutes. Meanwhile, combine remaining cumin and pepper with flour. Dredge fish in flour mixture, shaking off excess. In large skillet, heat remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add fish; brown 5 to 6 minutes on each side (fish should still be moist inside). With slotted spatula, transfer fish and potatoes to plates; keep them warm. Discard oil from skillet. Scrape coconut sauce into skillet; stir to loosen browned bits. Pour sauce into a small pitcher. Sprinkle fish and potatoes with chopped cilantro, and garnish with cilantro sprigs. Serve with onion-pepper relish and sauce. Makes 4 servings.
Moroccan Lamb Tagine
In large skillet, heat oil. Add lamb; brown on all sides. Drain off fat. Add celery, onion, and garlic; sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. In tagine or other casserole, combine lamb, sautéed vegetables, garbanzos, raisins, salt, pepper, and seasonings. Stir in broth. Cover and bake at 325° for about 1-1/2 hours, or until meat is tender. Serve from tagine or transfer to platter. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings.
Pumpkin Bundt Cake
Sift flour, baking powder, and cinnamon together. In a bowl, combine flour mixture with walnuts, raisins, and coconut. In electric mixer, cream margarine and 1 cup sugar on high speed for 5 minutes. Beat in lemon zest. On low speed, beat in egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each. In small bowl, whisk together pumpkin and port. Stir flour mixture and port mixture alternately into creamed mixture, stirring until batter is just blended. In another bowl, beat egg whites until frothy. Add reserved 1/3 cup sugar. Beat until whites hold stiff glossy peaks. Stir 1/4 of whites into the batter to loosen. Fold in remaining whites. Spoon batter into greased and floured 9-inch bundt pan, smoothing top. Bake at 350° for 50 to 60 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean. Let cool on rack 15 minutes. Loosen edges of cake carefully with a thin spatula. Invert onto rack. Let cake cool completely. Dust with confectioners sugar. Makes 1 large cake.
Delicious Lentil Pate
Sort lentils, discarding any debris, and rinse. In medium saucepan, combine lentils and water. Bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce heat and skim foam. Cover and simmer 25 minutes, or until tender. Drain. Meanwhile, cook eggs until hard-cooked. Drain and set aside to cool slightly. Peel. While lentils and eggs are cooking, heat oil in medium skillet; add onion and sauté 10 minutes, until golden brown. In food processor fitted with metal blade, chop garlic. Add lentils, eggs, onion with oil, walnuts, salt, and pepper. Pulse to combine. When blended, place in a bowl; cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve with crackers. Makes about 2-1/4 cups.
Minestrone
In large soup pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic, and bell peppers; sauté until golden. Add escarole and cook until it begins to wilt. Add broth and seasonings. Simmer 10 minutes; add beans and heat through. Makes 6 servings.
Golden Tzimmes
In medium saucepan, heat chicken fat; add onion and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add carrot, sweet potato, raisins, honey, orange zest and juice, salt, and seasonings. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 30 to 40 minutes, until carrots and sweet potatoes are tender and no liquid remains. Makes 8 servings.
Glazed Beef Brisket
In large Dutch oven, brown brisket on both sides, starting with fatty side. Pour off excess fat. Add hot broth, onion studded with cloves, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Cover and bake at 350° for 2-1/2 hours or until tender. Remove brisket; reserve cooking liquid. Return meat to Dutch oven. In small saucepan, combine jelly, mustard, green onions, and curry powder. Heat until jelly melts, stirring occasionally. Brush meat with glaze and roast 30 minutes longer, basting often with glaze. For gravy, heat remaining glaze with 1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid. Slice brisket and serve with gravy. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
Beet Borscht
In medium saucepan, brown ground beef, stirring to break up. Add carrot, celery, and onion. Sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add undrained beets, broth, wine, honey, tomato paste, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer 1 hour. Add salt and pepper. Stir in cabbage. Simmer 15 minutes, until cabbage is wilted and soup is hot. Ladle into bowls. Makes 8 servings.
Apple Cake
In electric mixer, beat eggs until light. Add oil and vanilla and beat until thickened. Gradually beat in sugar. Stir together flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt. Add to creamed mixture, beating well. Stir in apples and 1 cup walnuts. Batter will be stiff. Turn into well-greased and lightly floured 9 x 13-inch pan. Bake at 350° for 50 to 60 minutes. Cool. Spread Honey Frosting over top and sides of cake. Sprinkle with remaining walnuts. Refrigerate 2 hours before serving. Serve cool or at room temperature. Makes 12 to 16 servings.
Honey Frosting
In electric mixer, beat eggs until fluffy. In a small saucepan, bring honey to a boil, then gradually pour into eggs, beating constantly. Whip on high speed, until completely cool and thick, about 5 minutes. In another bowl, cream margarine until smooth and fluffy. Gradually beat in honey mixture until well mixed.
Kasha Knishes in Filo
In medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons chicken fat. Add onion; sauté until tender. Heat separate iron skillet over medium heat. Add groats, then add egg. Stirring, break up lumps, until grains are separated. In medium saucepan, bring chicken broth to a boil; add groats and salt. Cook 12 minutes, until broth is absorbed. Meanwhile, boil potatoes in separate saucepan, until tender. Drain, then mash potatoes over low heat. Let stand over heat until dry. Combine onions, groats, and potatoes. Lay out 1 sheet of filo. Brush with melted chicken fat. Top with second sheet. Place 1 cup of the filling in a row along one long side. Roll dough up, tucking in ends to enclose filling completely. Brush top with chicken fat. Place on lightly greased baking sheet. Repeat with remaining filo and filling. Bake at 350° for 25 to 35 minutes. Cut into slices about 1-1/2-inches thick. Makes 6 rolls.
Honey Sesame Cookies
In electric mixer, cream butter until light. Add brown sugar, honey, and vanilla; beat until light and fluffy. Beat in egg. Stir in flour and sesame seeds. Refrigerate 1 hour. Arrange parchment on a baking sheet and oil lightly. Drop dough by teaspoonfuls onto oiled parchment, two inches apart. Bake at 375° about 8 minutes, until browned around edges. Cool cookies on pan for 1 minute, then remove to wire racks to cool. Store in airtight container, separating layers with waxed paper. Makes about 4 dozen. NOTE: Crisp when freshly baked, chewy the second day.
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